I use lots of different kinds. its normally not advised to mix brands, for different reasons, such as the amount of medium used in the paint and the types of pigments used in certain colors. HOWEVER, i find that this is less imperative with watercolors as it is with oil paints, particularly with how I use them. so my disposition is that if you find colors you like and are comfortable with, no matter which brand, there shouldn't be an issue. just make sure to experiment on a scrap piece of paper with new colors first. the brands I have use are Holbien, Cotman, MerimerBlu, Venezia, Grumbacher, and Daniel Smith.
Holbien I find very consitant and reliable. cotman is a cheaper paint but its still good for basics. I dont have anything much to say about Merimer and Venezia, both seem perfectly fine. Grumbacher is inconsistent with the amount of medium in each tube, which makes blending difficult, and I avoid it unless they have a particular color I want. Daniel Smith is by far the best, but are very expensive - however definitely worth a look at their website.
awwwww thank you so much for such detailed reply! I'm grateful there are artists like you who still take time to discuss their coloring materials to random people *cries* Too bad I guess here in Asia the following brands you've mentioned are quite expensive, but I'll still try if I can find some of them One more question, I see that you have a lot of detailed watercolor back-grounds in your works, do you do the character first in your works or the back ground? Your works are lovely and surreal! keep it up!
it would probably be cheaper to look online for materials, but no matter where you are watercolors are expensive.the bright side is they last forever, In the 14 years I have been painting with watercolors, I got my first tubes at 16 years old, and the only colors i have run out of are Burnt Umber, and Black. There is a Holbien color I use for skin, it is part of their Japanese watercolor series and it is called Antique Coral Red. it is an opaque watercolor, and it is rather more pink than red. i find it gives me the perfect starter for skin tone without ever allowing me to go TOO dark right away. I have used this for skin ever since I was 16, and I still have about 1/3 of the tube left. Since you never have to throw out your unused paint you are at an advantage there.
I often advise people to start with the basic colors you will need: Cadmium red (medium hue) Cadmium Yellow (light or medium hue, whichever you prefer) Pthalo Green Colbalt Blue Ivory Black Burnt Umber
With those colors you can mix them to get most other colors. - you can even cut back and not get the brown, which you can mix on your own as well. I just find I use it so much that it would be wasteful of other colors to mix it. these colors will probably cost you around 60 USD - but then every time you have an extra 10 - 20$ you can splurge on another color you want. I started with 10 tubes, my mom bought them for me for my birthday. some of the tubes are still practically full. - even that yellowy green that I use in all my paintings - it is Antique Olive Green, another Japanese Watercolor by Holbien. the tube seems hardly touched, but I have used that color in almost all my paintings since i got it!
It depends on the work. It is often better to start out with the background, but I find the need to start the character before the background is complete. Its a process going between the background and the character, the background usually 2-3 steps ahead of the character. occasionally I do the opposite, but its totally dependent on the composition and the relationship between character and background.
Holbien I find very consitant and reliable. cotman is a cheaper paint but its still good for basics. I dont have anything much to say about Merimer and Venezia, both seem perfectly fine. Grumbacher is inconsistent with the amount of medium in each tube, which makes blending difficult, and I avoid it unless they have a particular color I want. Daniel Smith is by far the best, but are very expensive - however definitely worth a look at their website.
Too bad I guess here in Asia the following brands you've mentioned are quite expensive, but I'll still try if I can find some of them
One more question, I see that you have a lot of detailed watercolor back-grounds in your works, do you do the character first in your works or the back ground?
Your works are lovely and surreal! keep it up!
I often advise people to start with the basic colors you will need:
Cadmium red (medium hue)
Cadmium Yellow (light or medium hue, whichever you prefer)
Pthalo Green
Colbalt Blue
Ivory Black
Burnt Umber
With those colors you can mix them to get most other colors. - you can even cut back and not get the brown, which you can mix on your own as well. I just find I use it so much that it would be wasteful of other colors to mix it. these colors will probably cost you around 60 USD - but then every time you have an extra 10 - 20$ you can splurge on another color you want. I started with 10 tubes, my mom bought them for me for my birthday. some of the tubes are still practically full. - even that yellowy green that I use in all my paintings - it is Antique Olive Green, another Japanese Watercolor by Holbien. the tube seems hardly touched, but I have used that color in almost all my paintings since i got it!
It depends on the work. It is often better to start out with the background, but I find the need to start the character before the background is complete. Its a process going between the background and the character, the background usually 2-3 steps ahead of the character. occasionally I do the opposite, but its totally dependent on the composition and the relationship between character and background.